Tuesday, July 7, 2009

Why do Jewelers refuse to do certain repairs or alterations?

Let’s talk about the repair side of your jewelry experience.
You know the purchase side, where you buy that piece you just had to have, you know, the one that “haunts” you at night until you rationalize why you absolutely need it. Then comes the repair and maintenance of that same very special piece.

I know from experience as a jeweler, it is hard to explain why a piece of jewelry you bring in for repair is more complicated than you had anticipated. Explanations from, “I cannot size this ring because the structure will not permit it” or “it has to go back to the original creator of the piece”, are hard to hear when you came to us for a solution.

As always, if you are dealing with a jeweler you know and respect, you should understand where they are coming from. The last thing a jeweler wants to do, is create more of a problem by doing something that may cause a bad end result.

Here are some examples:
· Sizing a ring by cutting a piece out may loosen the stones, which may fall out later. The jeweler you deal with should be an expert on which rings this will happen to, and which will not.
· Heat makes metal more malleable, so when you heat up a chain to solder it, the next link on either side may become more weakened.
· Heat from a torch if brought too close to a stone could break that stone. (The laser machine has remedied a lot of this).
· Work of any kind on an Emerald, Opal, or Pearl can be very risky
Because they are soft stones.

The bottom line: I would be “irresponsible” if I didn’t alert you to the possible problems your piece may suffer. I would not like telling you after the fact that your piece was ruined because of the repair we just did. I want to give you the option to NOT take the risk, and give you an alternate plan.
This is where many jewelers fall down. No creative, alternative plan!
No sympathy! Where is the bedside manner? I know we go out of our way
to do just that.

Simple solutions to repairs:
· Instead of sizing the risky ring, wear it on another finger. (Pretty simple solution, not always practical).
· Ring guard instead of sizing a ring smaller (stops most rings from spinning too).
· Instead of soldering a jump ring that may put the piece at risk, use spiral rings that look like mini key chain rings, they don’t need to be soldered.

If a jeweler says that he does not want to handle something for you, it is usually for your own good and the good of the piece. Ask for the alternatives, and look for the “caring”. Both should be there!

Saturday, May 16, 2009

Engagement Ring Buying Made Simple

Most jewelers talk about Color, Cut, Clarity and Carat weight when buying an engagement ring. Here are some other points they may or may not mention. When buying an engagement ring you have a few simple decisions to make

Are you looking for a traditional engagement ring?

Solitaire versus side stones?

If you choose a simple, traditional, engagement ring with a single center stone, you can possibly put some diamonds into your wedding band instead. You could also use that savings to get a larger center stone. If you choose to have stones on the side be careful of the setting type. The way stones are added to an engagement ring may make it harder to find a wedding band that fits flush up to it.

Shape of the center stone:

Whether you choose a solitaire or a ring with diamonds on the side, you must choose the shape of your main (or center) stone. I have a strong bias when it comes to this. A round brilliant cut diamond is the best in my opinion. Not only is it the most traditional but it is also the most brilliant (hence the name) and timeless. The way the light reflects through the top of the diamond and bounces off the facets (angled properly for just this purpose) exploding out of the top, is most magnificent in the round brilliant cut.

Other popular shapes (also known as fancy shapes) are; Princess, Radiant, Emerald, Marquise and Pear shapes. In fancy shapes the light is actually drawn out and a shadow can be created in the center. Some call this a “Bow Tie” effect, found most often in Marquise and Pear shape diamonds. The Princess cut diamond can be square or triangular but the square is most popular. Princess cuts are ok reflecting light, but not nearly as well as the round brilliant diamond can. Remember: stones with sharp corners are very vulnerable. If a princess cut diamond gets loose in a ring setting it is very risky to have it tightened by just anyone. Corners on a diamond can be chipped easily on a stone with sharp corners. Yes, diamonds are hard but they can chip.

Four prong or six prong?

The next decision you will have to make is whether or not you want the center stone to sit in a four prong or six prong setting. Depending on your decision you may have to order a custom wedding band. When choosing 4 or 6 prongs you need to keep in mind that a wedding band will eventually be added, and sit next the engagement ring. The combination of the way the engagement ring prongs are configured with a wedding band may cause a noticeable gap between the two, pushing the band away from the engagement ring. This will make the two rings look awkward together and happens most in an engagement ring with side stones. You can prevent this from happening by getting a custom wedding band made.

These are just a few simple tips that you may want to keep in mind when buying an engagement ring and wedding band.

Good Luck!

Tuesday, March 17, 2009

How to Sell Gold Jewelry the Right Way

Buying Gold and used jewelry has been a service provided by jewelers since the beginning of time. With gold being at record highs, it has become another aspect of the jewelry business the customer needs to understand better. From TV commercials, to web campaigns, to your local jeweler, I would like to explain the process, so if this is something you would like to do, you can do it with some information behind you, and reasonable expectations.

First and foremost, even though gold is at an all time high, it is very, very rare that you will receive the original price you paid for a piece of jewelry. You should only sell items that are broken, missing its other ½, or, “unwanted”. And when I say unwanted, it would be a great idea if you asked your family and close friends if they are interested in whatever you are selling before selling it. “Re-gifting” may work great here. Most jewelers will give you an “offer to buy”, so you may want to consider your friends or relatives after you talk to the jeweler and know the offer. You may not want to give a gift of a piece over $100.00, but for $20.00 it may make sense.

Refiners will pay for gold based upon the scrap only. They will melt it down and pay for only gold content, but want nothing to do with any value it may have as a reconditioned piece. A local jeweler will pay for scrap, but may pay extra if he thinks he can recondition the piece and sell it as previously owned. Estate jewelry is very popular, and a good value for the customer. The estate section in a jewelry store usually has pieces from a few years ago (not always antique), which are viewed as unique, and sometimes better engineered than today’s brand new pieces.

Stones are usually taken into consideration when jewelry is sold to a local jeweler. Diamonds are paid extra for, and almost anything else is actually deducted from the price. A jeweler can sell a diamond no matter what size, but has no resale outlet for the other stones, and will not pay gold weight for a birthstone, or pearl. Even if a jeweler is paying more to put a piece in the case, they are prepared for the fact that it may stay around for awhile, and need to be scraped inevitably if nobody falls in love with it and buys it.

If you have an insurance appraisal for the piece, and you wonder why the offer to buy is so different than the original sale price, I will try to explain that too.
When something is bought originally, the customer pays for labor, design, and even the marketing of that piece. Jewelers and refiners are buying the commodity only, and all the labor, sentiment and anything else originally attached to it are not taken into account.

Bottom line, once again, “deal with someone you know and trust”. They will be fair with the offer to buy price, and sensitive to the emotional attachment if there is any. Selling jewelry can be as emotional as buying a piece. Deal with someone you know, and who knows YOU!

Saturday, February 28, 2009

How to Buy Silver Jewelry the Right Way

Thanks to all of you who read my last blog about “How to buy Jewelry the right way”

In the last 29 years I have been involved mostly in the fine jewelry side of the Jewelry business. There are only really 3 kinds of metals that are used to make fine jewelry, gold, platinum and silver. Today we are going to talk about the features and benefits of Silver Jewelry.

First it is significantly less expensive than the other 2 metals. I don’t want to quote numbers because they change daily, but it is substantial. You will see a lot of bigger bolder pieces in silver, sometimes because of the better price tag, and sometimes because it is the preferred metal by the designer.

Silver does have a tendency to oxidize and turn black.
This can be removed by polishing or some form of silver dip.
This is where I am going to give you a tip: Don’t ever get in the habit of leaving silver soaking in any liquid. Any dip, is just that, a dip, not a bath, and may end up taking the black off, leaving the metal looking gray and stained, or ALL black. Even
cleaning solutions should not be used for soaking

If you don’t like the fact that silver tarnishes, there is a solution called Rhodium plating. Rhodium is a silver colored metal that does not oxidize, and is used to plate over silver and white gold jewelry by some manufacturers. It has a distinct look to it, and once you have seen a piece that has it, you will be able to recognize it easily. Next time you are shopping for silver jewelry; ask to be shown a piece that is Rhodium plated next to a piece that is not. Rhodium has its good points and bad. It stops tarnish, but it can wear off too. If it does wear off in spots, you will have a piece that tarnishes in one spot, but not in another, and will be very noticeable. It works really well for earrings, and pendants, but not as well for rings and bracelets because of the difference in wear (we discussed this in my last blog).

Silver has recently been mixed with gold and diamonds in such jewelry as David Yurman and John Hardy. Their jewelry is not rhodium plated, and in my opinion these guys are genius!
They have made the design of their jewelry such that when it does oxidize, it actually looks better. It brings out the highs and lows in the design and makes them more definite. The twist in the David Yurman cable becomes more defined as the years go by, like
a good pair of jeans that age just right! This type of jewelry needs to be given to a professional for cleaning.

Please read my previous blog and leave comments on both!
Thank You,
Mike the Jeweler

Thursday, February 19, 2009

How to Buy Jewelry the Right Way

Hi, I am “Mike the Jeweler”, as seen on the Style Network’s reality show “Who’s Wedding is It Anyway”. This is my very first blog on a subject of jewelry buying, a subject I know as well or better than anyone else on the planet.

I want to protect and serve the retail public. I want to arm you with knowledge about jewelry buying, so you can buy jewelry right! I want to be accessible!

Did you ever buy jewelry from a total stranger, and then take it to some other stranger, or better yet, someone you “know, and trust” someone you didn’t buy the piece from in the first place, and ask the age old question “Did I get a good deal”? What if the answer is “no”? Why didn’t you buy from the expert, or someone you know and trust? You can ALWAYS “DO BETTER”, but there is a cost to THAT TOO!

I don’t mean to imply there is no room to purchase that one of a kind piece you saw on vacation and had to have. The impulse piece you fall in love with and cannot get from your normal “jewelry guy”.Ironically
that piece is the one you have to have no matter how “good of a deal” you are getting. You rationalize your way through the sale.

You can find a piece of jewelry for almost any price. Let’s talk about the “right piece” of jewelry instead of making it all about price, and a good deal.
Does the piece fit your lifestyle? If you garden with your jewelry on, I would not want you to do it with an Emerald ring and a bracelet to match. Have you ever had a jeweler tell you they would NOT sell you a thousand dollar piece of jewelry because they knew you would be “sorry later”, and lose the sale? I have done that multiple times in my 29 years in jewelry retail, and it feels good, and people trust me! Do you think all jewelers have that kind of practical approach, or have the integrity to tell you the truth with the loss of the sale looming? No way!

What is an “everyday piece” and what is not?
The classic every day piece is a diamond engagement ring. The minute you get “creative” and decide you want to have an Emerald, an Amethyst, or an Opal, or almost any other semi-precious stone in the center to be different, your “last forever”piece will become very temporary.
The above stones mentioned are very soft, brittle, or just plain fragile.
A ring lives on you hands and is subject to much knocking, scratching, hitting, and so on. Unless it has a Diamond, Sapphire, or a Ruby as the center stone, I would hesitate to call it an everyday ring. This also goes for Bracelets. Bracelets take as much or more wear than rings, and have more of a tendency to be worn with other bracelets they may knock into and wear against.

Stones in earrings are almost always safe. There is very little wear and abuse to an earring unless you wrestle, or are a circus performer. Earrings usually have their vulnerability in the structure of the metal, but the stones are usually safe. I would group pendants with earrings , the stones in these pieces are usually safe as well.

Diamonds are great! Such as ones that are found in Engagement rings. They are expensive, but they are DURABLE, and beautiful. They are used in Bridal jewelry because they represent love and longevity because they have been around for millions of years, and if you are married, it may seem like it has been millions of years (sorry, just being funny).

I have just written some of the important things I think you should know. Now I want you to tell me what YOU need to know by replying back.

Buy right!
“Mike the Jeweler"